Posts Tagged ‘autumn’

Our Hardy Ancestors, continued

Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009

Generally these OHA posts are all about food and the way people cooked the dickens out of it around the turn of the last century, or possibly the one before that. But in the olden days they did more than overcook seafood. When the sun went down and chores were done, my maternal grandfather researched genealogy at his rolltop desk. My mother remembers him calling long lost relatives in New York state, noting marriage lines and cross referencing maiden names. His four children could recite the Barnard line back seven generations: Raymond, Louis, Judah Harrison, Judah Pinney, Ebenezer, Francis and Joseph.

All his work on the family line is gone now, lost with the rolltop desk. A few years ago I inherited a family bible (or three) and tried to begin again. After a few weeks the piece of vellum I had taped to the wall had grown to 5′ x 6′, with extra pieces flapping all over with the names of children I’d forgotten and second marriages. I had to take it down when winter really set in and we started up the wood stove so as not to end the family line in a house fire.

Two years later I tried my first software genealogy program. It sucked – I think that’s actually the technical term. Family Tree Maker 1.0 was deeply flawed, structurally unsound and compulsively tidy. No one ever remarried, had step children or came into the line undocumented. In my family it’s not unusual to have one set of siblings marry another set, and then the remaining two marry after their spouses have passed on. This kind of behaviour is hard on probate courts and software, and don’t even get me started on gender issues. FTM 1.0 hated my family so much it eventually stopped working altogether.

Two weeks ago I bought a copy of Family Tree Maker 2010, because winter is setting in and I knew what would happen if I started taping big sheets of vellum to the wall behind the wood stove. I never thought I’d be plugging software on this blog, but this product is more fun than a video game. Well, any video game that’s not GTA IV.

My favorite of the Barnards has always been Francis. Referred to as “Deacon” Francis in the lore, he married Lucretia Pinney in 1740 when she was 19 and he was 21. Starting  in 1743 they had 13 children: Lucretia, Lydia, Irana, Aaron, Moses, David, Sara, Elizabeth, Elijah, Ebenezer, Samuel, Elihu, Caroline and Francis, Jr. They lived in the same town I grew up in, and my mother often told me of the sign on the side of the house that proclaimed:

house sign FB

The house stood on Duncaster Rd. until 1989. I have a vivid memory of the sign, but now I can’t remember if I saw it myself or simply heard the story often enough to make it real. In ‘89 they took the house down and the Wintonbury Historical Society put up a plaque in honor of the sons. Tonight I’m going to fire up the program and record the  daughters, too.

francis barnard 1719 1789 house

plaque

Plum Duff

Friday, November 27th, 2009
plum duff

Normally I wouldn’t start a post off with a picture, but “Plum Duff” isn’t really going to tell you much all by itself. And the Wikipedia article will re-direct to “Spotted Dick” and then you’re REALLY going to need a picture. It’s a dessert, people. A lovely, delicious, traditional dessert created by people for whom the term “Spotted Dick” was a fond endearment.

For this recipe you’ll need a few specialty items. I always hate running across that in a recipe I perhaps haven’t read closely before starting out; “You’ll need a flugelhorn!”,  announces the author, brightly. “These days you can find one easily on Amazon!”.  So, advance warning, for this recipe you will need a pudding mold or basin with a lid or cover, a metal trivet to rest the mold on the bottom of a pot, either tall enough to enclose it, or close enough that a collar of aluminum foil will do the trick.

My Great Aunt Margaret’s Plum Duff

  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup melted vegetable shortening
  • 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
  • 2 cups cooked prunes
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 tablespoons cold milk plum duff 1
  • Beat eggs well.
  • Dissolve brown sugar in hot, melted shortening and whisk in the eggs slowly, so they don’t cook.
  • Add cooked prunes that have been drained and mashed with fork*.
  • Sift flour and add. Dissolve soda in milk and add last.
  • Fill greased pudding mold 2/3 full, cover lightly and steam one hour over rack in large cooking pot.
  • * This used to be a very messy process – cutting the prunes with a sharp pair of sewing scissors, cooking and then mashing the results. Now we can throw the cooked, drained fruit in the cuisinart and have done with it.

    Now mix in the prunes, add the flour. . .

    plum duff 2

    And spoon the whole mess into the greased pudding mold. Now would be a good time to mention that the pudding is going to be a solid mass in the bottom of this mold after you’ve cooked it and allowed it to cool. It will look like it is solidly glued in there, but no – set the pan in very hot water for a few minutes and then invert over a plate. It should fall right out – if not feel free to repeat the process. It’s not like this stuff is fragile.

    plum duff 4To the left in this photo is my aluminum trivet, useful for keeping the mold off the bottom of the pot. It is stamped “1820 Cincinnati” on the bottom, so hey – an antique! I expect modern trivets would work just as well. Also, please ignore the Goya Black Bean Soup can. I’m not making anything from this product placement – the can was there for our supper of huevos rancheros later on that night.

    I didn’t think I had a photo of the pot with its aluminum collar, but here it is. Evidently I’d thought I’d blog my recipe for huevos rancheros, because there’s all the fixin’s, but thought the better of it. Everybody already has a favorite recipe for those.  But waaayyy in the back there you can see how to make your stew pot a steamer for your pudding mold.

    plum duff 5Steam the pudding at a low to moderate temperature for about an hour. You shouldn’t be able to hear it boiling madly, and check about half way through to see that the water level still comes close to 3/4 of the way up the mold.Add more hot (from the tap) water if you’re getting low. The temperature may drop below simmer for a minute but it’s not going to bother your Duff.

    Cool the pudding in the mold overnight in a cool place, then unmold it and decorate for the season. I used horehound, lavender and geranium because this is Thanksgiving and you can never tell when someone is going to eat the garnish – better to make it all edible.

    Now go check out all the interesting steamed dishes out there, like The Bitten Word’s Persimmon Cake (which they did w/o a pudding mold).

    2 large eggs
    1/2 cup melted vegetable shortening
    1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
    2 cups cooked prunes
    1 cup all-purpose flour
    1 teaspoon baking soda
    2 tablespoons cold milk
    1. Beat eggs well.
    2. Dissolve brown sugar in hot, melted shortening and add to eggs.
    3. Add cooked prunes that have been drained and mashed with fork.
    4. Sift flour and add. Dissolve soda in milk and add last.
    5. Fill greased pudding molds 2/3 full, cover lightly and steam one hour over rack in large cooking pot.
    6. Serve hot with Rum Sauce or whipped crea

    2 large eggs

    1/2 cup melted vegetable shortening

    1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

    2 cups cooked prunes

    1 cup all-purpose flour

    1 teaspoon baking soda

    2 tablespoons cold milk

    1. Beat eggs well.

    2. Dissolve brown sugar in hot, melted shortening and add to eggs.

    3. Add cooked prunes that have been drained and mashed with fork.

    4. Sift flour and add. Dissolve soda in milk and add last.

    5. Fill greased pudding molds 2/3 full, cover lightly and steam one hour over rack in large cooking pot.

    6. Serve hot with Rum Sauce or whipped cream.

    1. m.

    Winter’s green – Parsley Butter

    Sunday, November 15th, 2009

    If pesto is August – Genovese basil ground with green olive oil and pine nuts – then November is parsley butter. We have had an unusually warm fall here in the Northeast as tropical storms in the Gulf of Mexico push warm air and tepid ocean water up the coast, changing our Maine November to a balmy May – complete with heavy fog and mosquitoes. It won’t last. When the 20 degree nights return, the Gigante d’Italia Parsley will still be growing  glossy and dark green in the raised bed near the front door.

    parsley butter 1I don’t really have a recipe for parsley butter – it’s more of a kitchen staple. Try this on a bowl of hot pasta, in an omelet, or as we did yesterday, on tea sandwiches.

    Put a cup (2 sticks) of salted butter, cut into 1″ slices,  in your food processor. One stick will work too, but it isn’t enough mass for a regular (8 cup?) bowl and you’ll spend  a lot of time stopping the machine and using a spatula to force the lump of butter back into circulation. Trust me, I know.

    Add a huge amount of parsley. (See, I told you this wasn’t really a recipe.) A close gripped handful of leaves or about a cup chopped loosely, should do it. Use the small leaves close to the center of the plant for this, if you have a plant. I have been known to use two cups on occasion – like right before the final freeze in January, when I know it will be July before I do this again.

    Add some oregano (2 tsp dry, 1/4 C fresh), 1 tsp garlic powder, 1/2 tsp sea salt. Pulse until the mixture is bright green and looks like you could spread it without chunks of plant material getting in the way.

    Now dry some cucumber slices in a clean dish towel, get out your Pepperidge Farm thin white slices, and make some tea sandwiches. It’s a good thing.

    parsley butter 007

    Irrevocable

    Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

    Etymology: From the Latin revocare (present 1st-person singular revoco), meaning “to call back”.  Adjective 1. Unable to be retracted or reversed. Final.

    Irrevocable is not generally a word for the garden, especially in a temperate zone. Silver Queen sweet corn grows to 8′ over the course of the summer, and then subsides to stubble in the field. Perrenials are planted, grown, divided and moved, and the mint and chives go everywhere. Yesterday Rat came by and cut down a dozen 40′ spruce and pine at the front of the yard and yes, actually, it makes a tremendous difference in the local landscape and no, they don’t grow back.

    This is “before”, looking west toward the road.

    bar island before pic garden 003

    And this is “after”. There’s a lot more light in the garden now, and possibly a need for curtains up at the house. . .

    aftermath

    Nature’s first green is gold

    Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

    Her hardest hue to hold
    Her early leaf’s a flower;
    But only so an hour.
    Then leaf subsides to leaf.
    So Eden sank to grief,
    So dawn goes down to day.
    Nothing gold can stay.

    When I was little I thought the last line said; “Nothing green can stay.” It made so much more sense that way, growing up with New England autumns. I heard many poems and hymns before I happened to read them and got a lot of lyrics wrong – either through an error on the part of the speaker or being half asleep myself, in a warm corner, after dinner.  There was Gladly, the Cross-eyed Bear (a classic) but also The Bomb in Gilead. We wondered  why the Gilites were not more panicked by this. on the other hand, I take full responsibility for singing about “birds bursting in air” midway through the Star Spangled Banner. I had obviously been daydreaming when my first grade class learned the words. The Folk Process at Work, as U. Utah Phillips used to say.

    But this post was going to be about lettuce. The raised bed by the house is always the first to be planted, thawed by the spring sun and the last to freeze come winter. We’ve had lettuce and Bulls Blood Beet Greens since April and I’m going to miss them next week, when the nighttime temperatures dip into the 20’s and stay there.

    bulls blood beet

    lettuce and beets

    Nothing green can stay.

    Garden geology

    Monday, November 2nd, 2009

    I have rocks scattered around the garden for the most banal of reasons – I need them to step on.Yesterday afternoon I was out in the alpines, cutting down stalks and seedheads, and noticed the rocks as a structural element once again. They are lovely peeping out between lush branches of myrhh or half covered with campanula, but they really come into their own when the fickle vegetation subsides under a frost.

    1 hypericumThey also mitigate our harsh climate, parceling out the change from 10 degrees to 40 over the course of a January afternoon into smaller, gentler increments.

    2 cranesbillSome of the rocks are spectacular specimens all on their own. . .

    4 heath. . . and some are simply a sturdy, not unattractive place to put your foot while weeding.

    5 heatherI found this beautiful pale upright while digging a carrot bed. It has taken a few years of wind and weather to expose its true colors.

    rock garden 008

    And this one, again, is just a stepping stone. Can you imagine my wooden clogs on that seedum carpet? No, you cannot.

    rock garden 015Heath and heather require top-notch drainage. In this climate it’s not even the cold that kills these plants, it is wet roots and layers of clay. I dig a fairly deep hole (2′ for a 4″ pot) and fill it with large rocks and sand before planting a member of this family in a peaty hollow at the surface. My oldest plants have survived 15 winters here and thrived.

    rock garden 017This rock isn’t really visible in the summer, hedged in by daylilies and Bouncing Bet. In this season it’s sculpture.

    Winter is coming – the best time of year for collecting more rocks. I can hardly wait!

    Last warm day

    Friday, October 30th, 2009

    It was 34 degrees when I got up this morning, and an October day that starts off above freezing is a treat. So I had a cup of tea, planted strawberries, talked to my neighbor RAT about taking down a stand of trees to make more gardening space and gave him some Pedialyte for his daughter who has the flu. Then I went to Bar Island to look for apples.

    Bar Island is connected to the village of Bar Harbor by, well, a bar.  At low tide it is passable by car but is completely covered by water at high tide. Every summer some tourist miscalculates the window of opportunity and has to be rescued before their SUV is swept out to sea in an oil slick. (Or after, in which case there is a hefty fine.)

    This is the bar toward Bar Island at dead low tide. There’s actually salt water to either side. Today it was crowded with seagulls and crows eating barnacles and small crabs, as well as tourists.

    bar island 1

    And here we are, halfway across, with the Crown Princess anchored just inside Sheep Porcupine Island. There are four Porcupines: Sheep, Burnt, Long and Bald. If you’re standing on the town pier and looking out across the harbor, they are “A Sheep Burnt is Long Bald”. Probably true, along with being a nice memnotic.

    crown princess

    Bar Harbor logged 97 cruise ships from May through October in 2009. The Crown Princess is actually on the petite side, no matter that she could easily be another island in Frenchman Bay. Tomorrow we have the Queen Mary II and that will be the end of them till mid-May 2010. Town will be filled with passengers all weekend, on foot and in tour buses, clutching shopping bags and cell phones, decked out in parkas and wool hats in the 40 degree sunshine. Not that I’m complaining all that much – they spend a great deal of money here and can’t bring their cars.

    This is the view down the bar, back toward the village.

    bar toward village

    I didn’t take home any apples this trip. It was a beautiful day: I saw buffleheads and eiders, heard ravens talking in the woods and the calls of several species of woodpeckers, spoke with many foreign travelers (mostly about apples) and had a wonderful day. There was even enough light to work in the garden when I came home.

    These are the only apples I saw on Bar Island today. Little orange crabs on a pale (but still living) tree, they were growing in an abandoned orchard mixed in with cherry, peach and plum trees, all gone to ruin.

    crab tree

    Apple Brown Veronica

    Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

    Apple Brown Betty is a wonderful concoction that always involves bread crumbs; a deep-dish, homey dessert that involves bowls and spoons and oftimes a little vanilla ice cream. This weekend I wanted something more portable. I ended up with a hefty shortbread crust, a layer of very thin-sliced apples and the ubiquitous bread crumbs drizzled with butter – something that I could eat out of hand, wandering around the yard with a cup of tea. I explained to The Man that it was almost Apple Brown Betty, and he suggested that I name the new dessert after the other girl, hence, Veronica.

    This is a wonderful recipe if you have a food processor. Put the ingredients in and process, one after another, and don’t bother to clean it between times. I love this recipe.

    Apple Brown Veronica

    • 6 slices firm white sandwich bread (I use anything here – sesame baguettes, english muffins, dinner rolls, even cinnamon raisin bread.)

    Shortbread

    • 1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter (Did I mention this is not a diet friendly recipe? Don’t skimp, and don’t substitute, or it won’t be Veronica.)
    • 2 cups all-purpose flour
    • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt

    Apple filling

    • 1 stick unsalted butter
    • 2 lb tart apples (4 large, seven small-to-middlin)
    • 1 cup granulated sugar
    • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
    • Spices – go nuts. Allspice, cloves, lemon rind, anise, cinnamon and five-spice powder – whatever.

    Preheat oven to 350°F.

    Grind bread to fine crumbs in a food processor (and don’t bother cleaning it). Spread in a shallow baking pan and toast in middle of oven, stirring once, until golden, about 5 minutes. Leave oven on.

    Cut butter into 1/2-inch pieces, then pulse in a food processor with flour, brown sugar, and salt until it begins to form small lumps. Sprinkle base into a 13- by 9-inch baking pan and press evenly onto bottom. Bake in middle of oven until golden, about 20 minutes.

    One of the things I love about this recipe is that it makes a good, thick layer – no desperately trying to push crumbs into the corners of the pan while the middle gets holes.

    While the shortbread is baking melt butter and keep warm. Peel, quarter, and core apples and thinly slice with the slicer attachment in the food processor. Stir together sugar, spices and flour in a small bowl.

    Sprinkle half of sugar mixture over hot shortbread, then top with apples and sprinkle with remaining sugar mixture. Top with bread crumbs and drizzle butter over them.

    Bake, pressing down on filling with a metal spatula halfway through baking, until apples are very tender and bread crumbs are golden, 50 minutes to 1 hour total. Cool 20 minutes in pan on a rack. It’s important to reach in the oven and press the mixture down – the bread crumbs and butter become one with the apple mixture and don’t flake off when you’re eating one outside, over the winter turnips.

    apple brown veronica

    There’s a certain Slant of light

    Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

    On Winter Afternoons —

    That oppresses,like the Heft Of Cathedral Tunes —

    Emily Dickenson, #258

    Winter is on the way- no matter that I worked outside in the 50 °  sunshine yesterday, with midges floating around my head. I brought in firewood, cut down the elecampne stalks to use as kindling and put boots on all the trees.

    Tree boots are a necessity here, where the snow cover is often in place for months at a time and rodents of all sorts tunnel in close to the trunk and damage the soft bark. I use fiberglass window screening – cheap and easily available – and hemp twine that degrades over the course of the winter, softening enough that the tree’s growth will not be impeded if the gardener is tardy with removing it.

    I’m habitually behind on my garden work, but this year I found myself with a beautiful day and all the materials to hand. I dug out the bag of screening and found, at the bottom, pieces that I had cut to fit and labeled for future use some years ago. It was funny to hold the screening up to the trunk of say, the Seckel pear, and find it too small by half. I’ve added younger trees to the collection since then so nothing went to waste, but trees – like children- do grow up before you notice.

    So I managed all this work in one day instead of having to come inside because my hands are frozen, trying to get it done ahead of the first December snow. In doing so I realized that I have a lot of fruit trees. More than I would have thought and I had no idea I was being casual about the numbers. In an effort to be honest about the extent of my plant fixation, and perhaps stave off buying any more from this year’s Fedco Tree catalogue, here are three tree boots portraits for Winter 2009.

    I actually have pictures of all my trees but seriously, overkill. I can list them off though: Red Baron Peach, Belle of George Peach, Clapp Pear, Seckel Pear, Stanley Plum, Blue Permain Apple, 2 Beta Cherries, Russian Crabapple, Westfield-Seek-No-Further Apple, Sargeant Crab, Montmorcery Cherry, un-named apple seedling from Acadia National Park, Black and Pink Crab, Liberty Apple, and a Minnesota 477 apple.

    stanley plum 1

    Stanley Plum - one of my oldest trees

    clapp pear 2

    Clapp Pear - yellow, conical fruit

    blue permain apple 4

    Blue Permain apple, very old variety, hasn't cropped yet

    Appling

    Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

    appling 1One of the great joys of autumn up North is the apple harvest. The “King of the Orchard” is a staple crop here, and the only orchard fruit to bear regularly and abundantly despite spring freezes and cold summer rain. Yesterday my friend Liz and I went to an abandoned homestead on the Douglas Highway on our lunch hour and picked grocery bags of apples: Baldwin, Yellow Transparent, Olive Crab, Winter Greening and a few others that I can’t identify even using “Apples in Maine“. I was picking with the intent of making applesauce so I tried to stay mostly with varieties I could identify. New England was planted all over with cider apples, and they have too much tannin to make a good sauce. Taste the fruit if you’re unfamiliar with the tree – people describe cider apples as “floury” or “dense and dry”. They may not even be particularly sour – it’s the texture that  leads to applesauce with the consistency of library paste. My particular rule of thumb is to only pick from trees within 60 feet of a house. The best “dessert apples”  were  planted where they could be tended and picked with a minimum of effort.

    It was probably our last good picking day for a while – 50 degrees and bright sun with hatches of midges and late mosquitoes swirling around our heads. Then I went home and made applesauce. For this recipe you’ll need a food mill. I have a Villaware and I love it.

    appling 2Wash your apples if you need to. None of these have been sprayed, and they grow at least a quarter mile from any road so a light rinse will do. Halve them and cut out the stem and blossom ends. I halve them only to check for rot or insect damage.

    Leave the skins and seeds for color and flavor. Pile the trimmed fruit into a large pot. Now add the secret ingredient -  2 C of sugar. Adding the sugar now allows it to blend with the finished sauce and, I think, improves the flavor and texture over adding sugar to the finished product. It also increases the liquid content, allowing you to add less water. Then add about 1 C of water mixed with 2 Tbs. lemon juice. Stir to coat the apples. I don’t add any spices at this point, preferring to spice the individual batches as I use them. Put a close fitting lid on the pot and cook at medium high for about 20 minutes, checking periodically to see if you need to add more water.

    appling 4The apples are ready when they’ve “exploded”. Turn off the heat and allow the juices to soak in for about half an hour with the pot still covered.

    appling 5Dump the apple mixture into your food mill in batches. It would be nice to wait long enough for the apples to cool to room temperature, but by this time it’s always 10:30 p.m. and I have to get on with it. By all means wait till you can comfortably handle the fruit if you have that luxury – it won’t do it any harm and you’ll avoid spatter burns. Crank the mixture through the mill. The Villaware produces a nice smooth sauce, ruddy and thick with the processed apple skins, and only about a cup of waste from a whole pot of apples.

    appling 6

    Dish yourself a sample of sauce and congratulate yourself on an efficient use of resources. You can put up the rest by canning, but applesauce is a fairly low acid food and prone to contamination. Consult your Blue Book for details or get yourself some real produce freezer bags from the Agway  and  freeze the sauce in meal size packets.

    appling 7According to Liz, this is pretty good stuff.