Archive for the ‘orchard’ Category

Buoys, or not.

Saturday, July 10th, 2010

Today I went down to Southwest Harbor for a concert. The Southwest Harborites were also celebrating the annual Pink Flamingo festival (the lawn ornaments are considered native fauna) and the Coast Guard base was having an open house so it was a high time on the village main street. I took the back road down to Clark Point and stopped at this stand to buy a jar of pear jam.

The sign is quite well designed, with the whole positive/negative space thing going on, and “Antiques” is spelled correctly. What happened to “bouys”? Curse those pesky diphthongs!

I bought a jar of pear jam. I’ve tried to make it myself, and could possibly make gallons of the stuff from the Seckel pear tree’s bounty, but my trial batches were gritty and insipid. This jar from Maine’s Own Treats has a nice clear color. The contents list includes: Pears, Sugar, Applesauce, Apple Juice and Pectin. Applesauce sounds like it might be the secret ingredient. We’re going to try the jam out tomorrow on Sunday waffles and then I’ll decide if this combination is worth another experiment.

I like the “We’re Open” sign, too. There wasn’t a soul around – what changes when they’re closed?

Sambucus

Wednesday, July 7th, 2010

2010 is shaping up to be a legendary garden year. Two years ago I dug a large Sambucus canadensis out of the dooryard and transplanted it to the lower garden.  I laid plastic sheeting down over the bottom of the hole to keep it from re-generating, and here it is today. Perhaps I should have used steel plate. The Wikiepedia article lists the height as 3 meters or more, and that’s a 6′ step ladder at the right. This is going to be a great year for the elderberry harvest.

Sambucus (elder or elderberry) is a genus of between 5 and 30 species of shrubs or small trees in the moschatel family, Adoxaceae. It was formerly placed in the honeysuckle family, Caprifoliaceae, but was reclassified due to genetic evidence. Two of its species are herbaceous.

The genus is native in temperate-to-subtropical regions of both the Northern Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere. It is more widespread in the Northern Hemisphere; its Southern Hemisphere occurrence is restricted to parts of Australasia and South America.

The leaves are pinnate with 5–9 leaflets (rarely 3 or 11). Each leaf is 5–30 cm (2.0–12 in) long, and the leaflets have serrated margins. They bear large clusters of small white or cream-coloured flowers in late spring; these are followed by clusters of small black, blue-black, or red berries (rarely yellow or white).

Pruning, simplified

Saturday, June 26th, 2010

With apologies to Lewis Hill, and his wonderful book.

I have 21 fruit trees scattered over two acres. Young or old, no matter what the type or variety, they all need to be pruned to fully realize their potential. Abandoned apple orchards line the highways in some parts of Maine, where cider was an economic force till the great Baldwin freeze of 1890. These trees have grown into gnarled and lichen covered thickets that bear no fruit and die from the inside out – so congested with their own growth that light never reaches the inner branches. Proper pruning allows light to reach every leaf, conserves the energy and flow of sap to productive branches, increases air circulation to discourage mildew and fungus development and keeps the fruit within reach of the gardener.

This weekend I took on the Seckel pear tree in the dooryard. Mature specimens of this variety can reach 50′ – although probably not in Maine. The tree is growing under my power lines so I am very conscientious about pruning this particular specimen.

You’ll need a good pair of pruning shears and a whet stone, a fine toothed tree saw, a pair of loppers and a “reach pruner”. I really, truly try to avoid getting on a ladder, but I do own an aluminum 8′ step ladder for trees that have lost control. Remember not to cut the branch down to the very end – leave the “collar” behind.

Here are the rules:

1. Remove dead or damaged branches

2. Remove branches that cross another branch or the trunk

3. Remove branches that grow straight up. You want a level or even downward slope

4. Shorten the remaining branches to the length required, but cut just above a leaf that is facing the way you want the branch to grow.

5. Stand back and look at the tree. Does it need to be shaped in any particular way? Cutting back hard encourages growth (although that doesn’t seem intuitive). Prune harder in the direction you want the tree to grow.

6. Pick up all the prunings. Dispose of them far from your trees, or bag or burn them. Leaving dead bits lying around encourages pests and fungus.

7. One additional rule that is all mine: if a part of the tree is too complicated to figure out this year, it will only be more complicated a year from now. See if you can cut that part out.

Get a good book on pruning fruit trees for your area. This is a field that folks before us have put in a great deal of time and effort to figure out – take advantage! And remember to sharpen your tools.

These photos are not very clear in a “branch by branch” fashion, but they do show the difference in size – before and after.

Playing defense

Monday, May 31st, 2010

We are past apple blossom time here on the island; past plum, cherry, pear and peach blossoms too, and the trees have all set fruit. With the warmer nights and continued good rainfall comes new growth and rapid development, and the first signs of insect damage.

There are many good sites on the web for information on fruit tree pests. Every variety, no matter how modern and resistant, has its own weakness manifested in an insect, blight, rust, virus, spoor or mildew. Full time orchardists have a repertoire of traps and sprays in defense of (nearly) perfect product and I admire that. I should know more about traps, for instance, and plan to do the research for 2011 – I like passive defense. Unfortunately, I don’t have the time or opportunity to be a specialist. I have to be at work five days a week, far from my trees, and often miss the first signs of mildew, or leaf curl, only to come home one day and the top third of the Clapp pear’s foliage is deformed by mites. It can be discouraging.

Then I discovered Surround CP (cue the music for the dishwashing detergent commercial). I use it on all the fruit trees plus roses and vegetable crops. Although it is promoted as an insecticide I find it also inhibits the spread of rust and mildew. From the Fedco website:

Forms a particle film which coats the surface of leaves and fruits, creating a barrier which acts as a broad-spectrum crop protectant, reducing damage from various insects, mites and disease-carrying pests. Recommended for controlling European apple sawfly, plum curculio, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, CPB, thrips and other maleficial insects on fruit crops and field crops, effective against cucumber beetles on cucurbits. 95% kaolin clay, Surround’s layer of white particles creates an unfamiliar environment for the attacking insects, prevents them from recognizing their target, and, if they land, the particles rub off on them causing irritation and excessive grooming. The white surface also reflects sunlight, preventing sunburn and heat damage.

Notice that this product is 95% clay (most of the other material is food grade wax) and about $40.00 for 25 pounds. I have 20 trees and often grow food crops around and beneath the foliage so an inert material that is inexpensive (compared to most pesticides) is a good thing. I begin spraying just after petal fall and build up a good coating with two or three applications over a two week period and then one or two more over the course of the season depending on rainfall amounts. Surround does not wash off readily but it will strip off faster over a rainy summer. It has a helpful secondary effect of turning the foliage ghostly white after a fresh application making it easy to see where you’ve been and areas you’ve missed!

Which begs the question – is it visible on everything else? Yes, but it comes off the plastic chair and marble paving stones much faster than it does from foliage!

Screen door season

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

Today we put up the screen door. (That’s the royal we.) The screen door goes on at exactly the cusp between “too cold to leave the door open” and “full on bug assault”. Living at the edge of a swamp in coastal Maine, that change can happen over the course of a single day. Now the house is open to the breeze (and closed to the mosquitoes) until that afternoon in November comes around that looks like snow.

And with the screen door comes the odd, alien bloom of the Gunnera, at least a week before the huge leaves poke through.

While the south slope of the garden is covered in bee fodder: dandelion, forget-me-not, plum and peach blossoms.

A weed is just a plant in the wrong place.

Friday, April 16th, 2010

And the wrong place for your Ground Sand Cherry is the leach field of your septic tank. When I got the Sand Cherry from Fedco, it was not all that impressive. A mere slip of a plant with red, shiny bark, tiny dark green leaves and (eventually) white single-petaled blossoms, it seemed at home in the alpine garden. It is a truly prostrate plant, rising only 2″ or so in sinuous waves and sending out rootlets everywhere it is in contact with the ground. For the first few years the siting seemed very appropriate and it added a needed structure to the clumps of heather and low growing seedum varieties around it.

Ten years later, it is a proper tree 15′ in diameter branch spread with a 4″ caliper to the main branches and a distinct resemblance to a daylight Cuthulu. The above-ground profile of a tree is matched by its root system, so this is not the sort of thing you want atop your leach field.  Yesterday I dug it up and moved it to a sandy hillside where I can stand back and watch what it does for its next trick. Photo below is of the new site:

I’m not even concerned about the broken branches. I covered them with soil, they’ll root, and I’ll just end up with more Sand Cherry. And that’s fine – the bees love the blossoms, it is completely pest free, the deer don’t bother it and the peculiar growth habit is visually interesting all year long. It can grow to be 30′ for all I care. Now that’s it’s not crowding out the septic field. The remaining plants look a little sparse for now, but will fill in this summer.

In like a lamb.

Saturday, March 6th, 2010

Today was a March afternoon disguised as a June morning. Beautiful blue sky, 50 degree temperatures and just the slightest breeze to give the balmy calm air some variety every once in a while. I had to do errands all morning, but after 1:00 I changed shoes, found my safety googles and hauled the pump sprayer out of the cellar. I used All Season dormant oil today – it is petroleum based and not organic-rated, but it is a remarkably passive way to deal with all the various pests that over-winter on fruit trees. I add a few tablespoons of Crocker’s Golden Fish Oil (don’t open it in the house) every time – it adds “stickiness”, is a terrific foliar feed, and repels deer. Perfect. Both these substances are fairly innocuous as pesticides go, but you won’t like them in your eyes, hair, clothing – wear goggles and rubber gloves, please.

Then I went to check on the bees, and found them boiling over like an unwatched pot. I had to reach into the mass at the front of the hive and open the gate-stick a little farther. Fortunately they’re very accommodating even when just waking up, and all that happened was that I had to brush them off my hair, and the back of my neck, with a pine b0ugh.

Soon the fruit trees will wake up, too, and there will be honey in the comb!

Beautiful nuisance

Monday, February 15th, 2010

This afternoon I walked up the road to the neighbors to buy a dozen eggs. It is a lovely day even now that the sun is low; well above freezing with little wind and enough dirt showing through the ice that the road is passable even without my cleats. I was on my way down Rat’s long drive with the eggs tucked securely under my arm when a very pregnant doe burst out from a spruce thicket and nearly gave us both heart attacks. We both made very girly screams, too – deer actually make a lot of noise when they’re not being stealthy.

She was awkward running, her legs splayed out and not neatly tucked under her body as they might have been in another season. Lean everywhere except her abdomen,  she was close enough that I could see lumps of head and rump under her hide when she stretched out to run. I walked home looking at the tracks that in the snowbanks that line the road, wondering if I could pick her’s out from all the rest by their peculiar spacing. There were certainly a lot of hoof prints, and she’ll probably make two more tiny sets in a few weeks.

I’ve been thinking about how to protect the new garden space created when we cut down the trees between the house and the road last fall. There are no real barriers there – no hedges or fence – but the local deer haven’t yet changed their habitual route that skirts where the forest used to be. It would be a good idea to enclose the space with a fence before they notice the shortcut.

The easiest and cheapest way to enclose a random space against most of our local predators is an electric fence. We don’t have woodchucks – not enough cleared land with soil to allow burrows – and rabbits are picked off by raptors before there are enough of them to cause a problem, so this fence will be geared toward deer. A one-wire fence with an A/C energizer should do the trick. Conventional wisdom used to be that baiting the fence worked best – the deer came forward and touched the green apple scented bait cap (and the charged wire) with its nose and learned not to go there. Recent tests show that it is actually more efficient to use repellent on cloth flags hanging from the wire. The deer tend to check the strange item and then to associate the repellent with the shock – making the repellent more useful on unfenced areas too. There have been stories about bears being attracted to the green apple and peanut butter lures, so there’s another reason to go with repellent rather than bait. This fence won’t do anything to a bear.

I use Premiere 1 Supplies for my fencing needs. I’m very happy with the Quick-Net and solar powered battery Kube that protects the lower garden. For this application, though, I’m going with an A/C Kube because I’m close enough to an outlet in the house to run conduit out to the fence. Add in some Intellirope, a variety of insulators for t-posts, trees and stakes, some rope connectors, a few spring gates  and a bag of 20 fiber rods and I’ll have a good chance of bringing lettuce seedlings to maturity. I am enclosing approximately 300 (linear) feet at a cost of @ $200.00. Factoring in the fairly long life expectancy of the equipment (10 years) over the amount of deer repellent, labor and lost productivity and I think this works out to a good deal.  Here’s the work sheet. More pictures to follow as the equipment arrives and is installed!

New work

Tuesday, December 8th, 2009

apricots on a green plate

Apricots on a Green Plate

Small paintings are really hard. I had no idea. I have a feeling I wasn’t a very good painter the last time I tried to go 9 x 12 inches, and with some increase in ability comes the need for enough space to swing the arm from the shoulder – get some muscle into it. I have some plums set up next, on the same size board, so that when I start an 18 x 24 drawing next week it will feel huge.

Last warm day

Friday, October 30th, 2009

It was 34 degrees when I got up this morning, and an October day that starts off above freezing is a treat. So I had a cup of tea, planted strawberries, talked to my neighbor RAT about taking down a stand of trees to make more gardening space and gave him some Pedialyte for his daughter who has the flu. Then I went to Bar Island to look for apples.

Bar Island is connected to the village of Bar Harbor by, well, a bar.  At low tide it is passable by car but is completely covered by water at high tide. Every summer some tourist miscalculates the window of opportunity and has to be rescued before their SUV is swept out to sea in an oil slick. (Or after, in which case there is a hefty fine.)

This is the bar toward Bar Island at dead low tide. There’s actually salt water to either side. Today it was crowded with seagulls and crows eating barnacles and small crabs, as well as tourists.

bar island 1

And here we are, halfway across, with the Crown Princess anchored just inside Sheep Porcupine Island. There are four Porcupines: Sheep, Burnt, Long and Bald. If you’re standing on the town pier and looking out across the harbor, they are “A Sheep Burnt is Long Bald”. Probably true, along with being a nice memnotic.

crown princess

Bar Harbor logged 97 cruise ships from May through October in 2009. The Crown Princess is actually on the petite side, no matter that she could easily be another island in Frenchman Bay. Tomorrow we have the Queen Mary II and that will be the end of them till mid-May 2010. Town will be filled with passengers all weekend, on foot and in tour buses, clutching shopping bags and cell phones, decked out in parkas and wool hats in the 40 degree sunshine. Not that I’m complaining all that much – they spend a great deal of money here and can’t bring their cars.

This is the view down the bar, back toward the village.

bar toward village

I didn’t take home any apples this trip. It was a beautiful day: I saw buffleheads and eiders, heard ravens talking in the woods and the calls of several species of woodpeckers, spoke with many foreign travelers (mostly about apples) and had a wonderful day. There was even enough light to work in the garden when I came home.

These are the only apples I saw on Bar Island today. Little orange crabs on a pale (but still living) tree, they were growing in an abandoned orchard mixed in with cherry, peach and plum trees, all gone to ruin.

crab tree